July 4,2014. Happy birthday America
I started out the outer day headed for the Vatican. As per usual in Roma, there were several unexpected events before I got there.
First was this: 116 bus. Riding This little electric number was better than a ride at cedar point! The route for this was through the ancient center where there's barely room for a smart car, let alone a bus, but it handled it like a race car. (I have this theory that all Italians fancy themselves formula one drivers.) It whipped around tight corners, it jumped over bumps, it skidded into stops nearly sideways! It was an exhilarating little start to the outing.
I jumped onto another bus and when it turned the wrong way, I got out and found I was in front of this church.
It was mouth dropping amazing on the inside yet on the outside, I had walked by it dozens of times with out even noticing it. I wandered in wonder at the splendor of it. The detail of the fresco on the ceiling was hard to make out, it was so high. However, they had conveniently place a mirror so you could stare without getting a crook in your neck. There happened to be a statue by Bernini in this church and a painting by Caravaggio. Amazing. I would have never seen them if I hadn't happened to have gotten on a bus going the wrong way.
Finally I got to the Vatican and was blown away again. Of course. The magnitude is hard to imagine or describe. They have markers in the floor that indicate the size of other cathedrals around the world in relation to St. Pete's. They are dwarfed, I tell you. The little Cupid angel babies are bigger than a grown man. The dozens of statues are 10 - 20 feet high and they too, are dwarfed in this cavernous space. I liked looking at the stone mosaics in the floor. I could actually see those.
When I came out, I thought, "I'm close to Gianicolo." It's a park on the top of the hill. I saw a road I thought I remembered and started up it, because I was just sure there was a bus stop right around a corner. Well, there wasn't. What I did is walk up the hill all along the outside of the wall of Rome. I walked and walked and walked...I kept saying things like, "Surely around this curve, I'll be there," "Surely, there's another road here somewhere," "Surely, I've got to be near the top now!!" Then I said "Don't call me Shirley!" And, ultimately, I did get to the top and the 25 minute hard uphill march was worth it because I saw this:
It's the end of an aqueduct on top of this lovely hill. It was near sunset and all of Roma was golden. I sat there and watched the colors intensify and the sun set. Apparently, it's the place to come for photos if you're just married in Rome because just while I was there, two different couples with drivers and photographers showed up here.
Just as I decided to go down, a bus went by. Well, there was nothing for it but to walk. I went down the front of the hill this time and, fortunately, there were some stairs. I took them and ended squarely in Tresteveri. It's is a cool, artsy neighborhood over the river from the center. I sat myself down and enjoyed a meal at this place. Serendipity #3 for the day.
I actually was seated at a different place and saw this woman, wearing an apron at another place a block away, so I go up and went to her place. Actually, I could almost hear her calling me. I had rabbit! First time ever and it was delicious fixed in oil and rosemary. I just savored my wine, my veggies, the ambiance of a neighborhood where neighbors bring special treats they cooked to share with the lady in the apron. She turns out to be the second generation cook in this family place. Her father started it after wwII right here on this corner.
I then began the wander through the back streets and past the street vendors and street performers. It's arts Fest right now in Roma and there's all kinds of singing groups and artisans with booths selling their jewelry or scarves or whatever. It was such an enjoyable evening of just being and living. I had to force myself to go home.
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